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| Jan. 17, 2004 |
Bangkok |
Things I have learned on my first day
and a half: PEOPLE AFRAID OF TRAFFIC - STAY HOME! READ
MORE |
| Jan. 27, 2004 |
Uniquely
Thai |
There's nothing quite like experiencing life in the
true rural Thailand to make me remember why I love travelling. This
week I visited a CUSO placement in a small Karen village. READ
MORE |
| Feb. 4, 2004 |
Burma |
I went back and forth over my decision to go to Myanmar
(Burma) for weeks before I left for Asia and for weeks after I got
to Thailand. My express purpose for going was to do a story on the
remainng Jewish community in Yangon, a group of eight families, down
from 2,500 people only 50 years ago. READ
MORE |
| Feb. 10, 2004 |
Chiang
Mai |
Yes, I rode an elephant. It's what people come to do
in Chiang Mai (in
northern Thailand) with or without the standard three-day trek, river
rafting on rubber and/or bamboo rafts, visiting a beautiful waterfall and
traipsing through the living rooms and backyards of various hill tribes.
READ
MORE |
| Feb. 15, 2004 |
Slow
boat down the Mekong. |
Slow boat down the Mekong... Slow boat down the Mekong...
It sounds so divinge, so perfectly foreign, so Indochina. Doesn't
it conjure up romantic images of sunsets and fishing boats, rice paddies
and water-side bungalows? READ
MORE |
| Feb. 18, 2004 |
Luang
Prabang -- heritage city |
There are certainly pros and cons about visiting a world
heritage site, such as that of Luang Prabang in northern Loas. READ
MORE |
| Feb. 20, 2004 |
Nong
Khiaw -- I become a farang bitch |
Nong Khiaw in northern Thailand was the first place
I really became a farang bitch. (Farang, by the way, means “French”
in some Asian languages and has become the word for “foreigner”
in those countries. Lao and Thailand being two examples.) READ
MORE |
| Feb. 21, 2004 |
Back
from Nong Khiaw--Seaweed, stones and rice with extras |
Having spent two days nearly comatose in
Nong Khiaw, I decided I would have to be taken away in a white jacket,
or Lao equivalent, if I stayed there another day with nothing to do.
READ
MORE |
| Feb. 23, 2004 |
Lao
wedding -- tie boys and '80s make-up |
Back from Nong Khiaw in the Nittaya guest house in Luang
Prabang, it was finally the day of the wedding. READ
MORE |
| Mar. 1, 2004 |
March
1: Everybody loves Laos |
Really, it's true, ask any traveller through Southeast Asia and
it seems
they agree that Laos is becoming one of the favored destinations.
READ
MORE
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| Mar. 4, 2004 |
Don
Det |
I had heard about the islands of Don Det and Don Kon from just a
handful of travellers who I met in Laos, as well as from some friends...
READ
MORE |
| Mar. 8, 2004 |
Angkor
and the hassles are just beginning |
Let me say this about Cambodia. Any country that has an entry
in the
guidebook on how to say “Are there any landmines here,”
in English is not to be taken lightly. READ
MORE
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| Mar. 12, 2004 |
Cambodia:
Guesthouse headaches and sex on the beach |
Having left my disappointment with Angkor behind in the dust of
Siem Reap, I head out to Phnom Penh with renewed hope that my Cambodia
trip would not be one of total dismay. READ
MORE
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| Mar. 17, 2004 |
From
Scambodia to Vietscam |
Given the many stories I’ve heard of tourists
being taken advantage of and
the kinds of things locals will do to make an extra buck of a traveller,
what happened at the border between Cambodia and Vietnam should
have come as no surprise. READ
MORE
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| Mar. 19, 2004 |
Facing
the traffic (literally) in Ho Chi Minh city |
Trekking in northern Thailand, white water rafting
in Malawi or paragliding
in Israel... nothing compared to riding a motorbike through Ho Chi
Minh City (also still known as Saigon). READ
MORE |
| Mar. 22, 2004 |
The
Mekong Delta |
It occurred to me that when our “Happy Tour” tour
guide for a three-day
jaunt into the Mekong Delta told us his name was, “Jackie.
Jackie Chan” that there was some deep-seeded psychological
drama going on inside the man...READ
MORE
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| Mar. 24, 2004 |
The
Cu Chi Tunnels |
The first time I heard the term “tunnel rat” was in
some Vietnam War movie with Sean Penn and Michael J. Fox. When Fox
complains about the treatment of a female Viet Cong (VC) prisoner,
his superior threatens to make him a tunnel rat. READ
MORE |
| Mar. 30, 2004 |
Floating
my troubles away in Nha Trang |
I was shocked… no, no, … appalled…. OK, OK, shocked
and appalled… here I thought Vietnam was just supposed to be
beginning it’s development of tourism and what do I see when
my tour bus brings me to Nha Trang? Miami Beach. READ
MORE |
| April 3, 2004 |
Tigers
and Camels and clothes, oh my! |
Beautiful, beautiful Hoi An. A mix of stunning architecture dating
back over 100 years – a mix of French, Chinese, Japanese and
Vietnamese buildings – and a thriving clothing trade that knows
exactly how to snag me. READ
MORE |
| April 9, 2004 |
The
College of how to Overcharge Newcomers (CON) |
Somewhere in Hanoi, behind an innocuous-looking noodle shop, down
an alleyway and up a dark stairwell, there is malicious teaching afoot.READ
MORE |
| April 10, 2004 |
A
bus to Vientiane: I should have flown |
Looks like a cute bus, doesn’t it? Not a cramped mini-bus.
Not an overloaded local truck. Not even the expected 2,000 bags of
rice on top raising the centre of gravity to about a foot above the
roof. But for those who paid $30 to sit on its floor, ahhh, they did
not think it was so cute. READ
MORE |
| April 18, 2004 |
How
drunk can you get? |
My first splash of Boun Pii Mai (Lao New Year) comes at me through
the open windows of my bus to Luang Prabang. Children squeal in laughter
as they stand on the side of the road with hoses and pails and toss
water at any vehicle passing by. READ
MORE |
| April 21, 2004 |
Oudom
Xai: Sometimes it doesn't pay to have a map. |
Leaving Luang Prabang, I head north to cross the border from Laos
to China. I decide to visit two towns on the way -- Oudom Xai and
Luang Namtha -- just to squeeze as much of Laos in as possible before
I leave. READ
MORE |
| April 24, 2004 |
Jinghong - an introduction to Chinese toilets |
I had heard all about Chinese toilets but unless youre used to
living in
tenement housing, there isn't much to prepare you. The worst of my
experiences came on the first day in China, in Jinghong. READ
MORE |
| April 27, 2004 |
To
bus or not to bus |
There should be some standards for map dots. You know, like DIN
numbers on film or something. Here I am, selecting what cities I'd
visit in China based on the smallest dots on the map...READ
MORE |
| April 27, 2004 |
Experincing
Kunming and getting pissed on a train |
Kunming was even bigger than Jinghong. A huge metropolis of a zillion
people scurrying around on bikes amid the taxis, buses and motorbikes.
Using my guidebook, I choose a budget hotel in the "old"
part of town...READ
MORE |
| April 28, 2004 |
Buying
a bus ticket in Nanning - sometimes it pays to be a nuisance |
Tired of seeing huge cities and paying ten times more for hotels
than I did in Southeast Asia, I decide to make my next destination
Guiping, a small town chosen at random from my guidebook...READ
MORE |
| April 30, 2004 |
Guiping
- in which I am a star... or a freak |
Guiping is exactly what I was looking for. The one hotel in town
that caters to tourists (possibly the one hotel in town) offers me
a lovely single room...READ
MORE |
| May 2, 2004 |
Hong
Kong |
What's to say about a city whose buildings are so densely packed
together, the streets are darker during the day when the sun is shining
than at night when the neon lights are on. READ
MORE |
| May 6, 2004 |
Guangzhou |
I had expected to hate Guangzhou, perhaps as much as I had expected
to like Jinghong. Another unfulfilled expectation. READ
MORE |
| May 8, 2004 |
Yangshuo:
Running into "Dad" |
So here I was, thinking I'm pretty smart about getting to the well-known
town of Yangshuo. I forewent the standard express bus from Guangzhou
to Guilin (seven hours, 150Yuan), where I would still have to find
a connecting bus to Yangshuo, and managed in broken Chinese to find
a night bus that went directly from Guangzhou to Yangshuo.READ
MORE |
| May 10, 2004 |
Heaven
on a rice terrace |
I have found a little paradise in the craziness of China. Just
two hours north of Guilin is the area known as the "Dragon's
Backbone" or Longji Rice Terraces. Wooden buildings and stone
pathways that wriggle through the small villages (and these really
are small), and thousands of curving rice paddies make this area
world famous. READ
MORE
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| May 12, 2004 |
Guilin:
The most beautiful city in the world? Not! But... |
In one of the tourist brochures you get at the local CITS (China
International Travel Service) in Guilin, there's a picture of Bill
Clinton (or maybe it was Jimmy Carter) riding a bicycle through
some villagey looking area and a quote calling Guilin "the
most beautiful city in the world". READ
MORE
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